Woke up on Monday feeling it a little from The all-day booze session with the rugby in the afternoon. I thought I was going to have an easy morning and go for an avocado juice (I have one most mornings now, so good!)

I remembered that Paulenne said she’d take me down to see their new place in Kalutara, south of Colombo. She sent me a text asking if I still wanted to go. It sounded so peaceful and a real hideaway. I really wanted to see more than just Colombo and Mt Lavinia, so they sent a driver to pick me up and we met at their lake house, then headed south to Kalutara. They have an amazing place on the river. It’s an old chicken run but is being converted into a kind of social community holiday home. It’s beautiful location make it so tranquil and isolated. We proceeded to have tea on the jetty and said greeted the ‘guard dogs’ (not sure they were too great at their job – They were all wags!!).

We left in the afternoon and Paulenne’s driver dropped me back to do some work. I followed up some emails and send out a few estimates. Did this till about 6.30 and met Dan, a New Yorker, and went to the old Lion pub for 4 swift jars of the local draft! We talked sport and America. He was quite interesting and he earned his money by taking college kids exams for them. He makes fake ID cards and goes to their exams to get them into Yale and Harvard with scholarships!! Quite cool…!

On the trip to Kalutra, I noticed a few little waves through the branches and the fallen down huts. I made a plan for an early start and to head down there and take a surf.

Got up and got the train down. The plan was basically to just look out of the window and hop of the train when I saw some good waves. I ended up a Kalutra South, one of the only stations that I passed, and it seemed to be inland. Had to work out how to get to the coast…

There was this big dark Sri Lankan man heading towards me saying ‘taxi, taxi?’

I said ‘how much to the coast?’

He said ‘300’

I said ‘100’

He said ‘ok.’

Simple.

This chap wore a once white t-shirt, now greyed /very dirty and a sarong that was in the same condition. As he spoke to me, bits of red Panne would fly from his mouth and his teeth and lips were stained red. He was not all that great to look at, but he turned out to be a bit of legend. He surfed, and he took me to his house on the beach in a middle of a palm tree field. I met his wife, daughter (that he tried to set me up with ‘She likes European man’).

I had a great surf. The place was completely empty. Some great lefts at about 2ft and clean up until about 1pm. It was so great feeling the water on my body after being so hot and city. I I’d forgotten how great it is to surf without a wetsuit: so free and nimble. I couldn’t have asked for a better morning. When I got out his wife had curry ready for me so I sat with a bottle of water with some ‘rice n’ curry’ working out how I could stay there for tomorrow. Unfortunately I had meetings scheduled.

I caught the train back to Mt Lavina felling fully quenched, if not slightly burnt after only using spf 20 and staying out in the sea for about 3hrs. Got the Aloe Vera  ready for meetings tomorrow…!

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